Laredo → Güemes
A short boat crossing to Santoña, three long Cantabrian beaches, and the arrival in Güemes, home to the legendary Padre Ernesto albergue.
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From beach to beach, to the legendary albergue of Güemes
The stage starts with a short boat crossing between Puntal de Laredo and Santoña. From there, the Camino runs along three long beaches: Salvé in Laredo, Berria after Santoña, and Helgueras-Trengadín in Noja, before turning inland towards Güemes.
An inland variant via Colindres exists, about 4.1 km longer, used when the boat service doesn't run during the winter months. The stage ends in Güemes, famous for its pilgrim albergue run by Father Ernesto Bustio, a true landmark of hospitality on the whole Camino del Norte.
What the terrain is like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
Starts with a boat crossing, continues along three long beaches, and ends with an inland stretch into Güemes.
Scenery
Salvé beach, Berria beach and Helgueras-Trengadín beach follow one another before heading into inland Cantabria.
Path type
Beach sand, seafront promenades and, on the final stretch, inland rural paths into Güemes.
Villages
Santoña, Noja and Colindres (on the inland variant) are the stage's main towns.
Water points
Plentiful in Santoña and Noja, both towns with a good range of services.
Shade
Limited on the beach stretches, somewhat better on the final inland section.
Traffic
Generally low, except in the urban stretches of Santoña and Noja.
Key tip
Check the boat schedule from Laredo to Santoña before setting off; it may not run in winter, requiring the Colindres variant.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Accommodation in Güemes
Güemes is home to one of the most iconic accommodations on the entire Camino del Norte. Indicative price per night.
Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto
Run by Father Ernesto Bustio and a team of volunteers, with about 100 beds across 5 rooms and 8 cabins. The donation covers dinner, accommodation and breakfast. It has a large library and operates year-round entirely on pilgrim contributions.
Refuelling on this stage
Santoña and Noja offer a good range of bars and restaurants; in Güemes, dinner is included in the albergue's donation.
Anchovies and preserves
Santoña is Spain's anchovy capital: a must-stop for lovers of quality preserved fish.
Historic stops on this stage
Boat crossing to Santoña
A short, picturesque boat trip between Puntal de Laredo and Santoña, one of the most unique moments of the Camino del Norte.
Three Cantabrian beaches
Salvé, Berria and Helgueras-Trengadín follow one after another along the stage, among the prettiest on the whole Cantabrian coast.
Father Ernesto's albergue
A true landmark of Camino hospitality, with over 100 beds and a philosophy built entirely on donation.
The experience at the Güemes albergue, with its communal dinner and the atmosphere created by Father Ernesto, is one of the most fondly remembered moments among those who walk the Camino del Norte.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: Laredo has a direct bus connection to Santander and Bilbao.
If you need to head back from Güemes: there's a bus connection to Santander, a short distance away.
What to know before this stage
Check the boat schedule
The crossing between Laredo and Santoña doesn't always run in winter; check before setting off to avoid losing time.
Take your time on the three beaches
Salvé, Berria and Helgueras-Trengadín are among the prettiest on the Camino del Norte: no need to rush across them.
Experience the Güemes albergue
The communal dinner and Father Ernesto's atmosphere are an essential part of this stage: arrive with time to enjoy it.
Carry cash for the donation
The Güemes albergue's system runs entirely on voluntary pilgrim contributions.
Don't ruin this stage
Not checking on the boat service
If it's not running and you didn't know, you'll have to improvise the Colindres variant, 4.1 km longer.
Rushing through the beaches
They're among the prettiest of the whole route: worth enjoying without picking up the pace.
Arriving late at Güemes
The communal dinner and the albergue's atmosphere are part of the experience: it's best not to arrive at the last minute.
Not carrying cash
The Güemes albergue's donation is the basis of how it operates; it's worth carrying some cash.
Everything you're wondering before this stage
How many kilometres from Laredo to Güemes?
How do you cross from Laredo to Santoña?
What beaches does this stage pass?
What is the Güemes albergue?
Is this stage difficult?
Do you need to book the Güemes albergue?
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There are still stages ahead of you, but by the time you reach Santiago you'll have earned a good breakfast. At Bonsai Café we're waiting for you right in the centre, with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.