Portuguese Way · Stage 9

Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis

A short, very flat stage with a reward at the end: the thermal waters of Caldas de Reis.

Distance
21.1 km
Elevation
+218 m / −222 m
Time
About 5h
Difficulty
Easy
Best season
Year-round

Transparency: this page contains affiliate links. If you book or buy through one of them, CaminoCompass may receive a commission. Read our affiliate policy

A calm stage to the thermal town

About 3 km out of Pontevedra, the Way reaches a fork where the Spiritual Variant splits off — an alternative route to Pontecesures that gains more followers every year. The Central route continues along comfortable dirt and asphalt tracks with very little elevation change, passing small rural settlements.

The reward comes in Caldas de Reis, a thermal town bathed by the Umia and Bermaña rivers, whose hot springs were already used by the Celtic Cilenos and later by the Romans and kings such as Alfonso VII of Castile. The As Burgas fountain, with its stone lions spouting hot water, is the perfect stop for tired feet at the end of the stage.

What the terrain is like, kilometre by kilometre

Terrain

One of the flattest stages on the whole Portuguese Way, with no notable elevation changes.

Scenery

Rural areas and eucalyptus forest, with some stretches alongside the N-550 road.

Path surface

Mostly comfortable dirt tracks and asphalt, easy underfoot.

Villages

Small rural settlements in the Pontevedra area before reaching Caldas de Reis.

Water stops

Regular services along the stage, no long stretches without fountains or bars.

Shade

Variable, with eucalyptus forest sections and other more exposed stretches near the road.

Traffic

The route follows the N-550 in parts, so pay attention at a few crossings.

Key tip

Save some energy to enjoy the As Burgas fountain in Caldas de Reis — the perfect way to end this stage.

What to pack, travel insurance and getting around

One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.

See recommendations →

Accommodation in Caldas de Reis for pilgrims

Caldas de Reis has an interesting thermal-stay option alongside the usual pilgrim choices. Prices are indicative, per night.

Public albergue

Albergue de Peregrinos de Caldas de Reis

From €8 · bunk

Public albergue run by the Xunta de Galicia, close to the centre and the thermal baths.

Book on Hostelworld
With character

Acuña and Dávila spas

From €60–90

Two historic spas on opposite banks of the Umia river — the perfect way to enjoy the thermal waters.

Book on Booking.com

Refuel in Caldas de Reis

Good choice of bars and restaurants in the centre, with a relaxed vibe thanks to the thermal baths.

Along the way

Bars in the rural villages

Several rest stops along the stage, in the small villages you pass through.

In Caldas de Reis

Pilgrim menu

The town centre has a good choice of bars and restaurants used to feeding pilgrims.

Historic stops on this stage

Fork

Start of the Spiritual Variant

About 3 km out of Pontevedra, this is where the alternative route to Pontecesures splits off, growing more popular by the year.

Caldas de Reis

As Burgas fountain

A late-19th-century thermal fountain with stone lions spouting hot water — perfect for tired feet at the end of the stage.

Caldas de Reis

Acuña and Dávila spas

Two historic spas on opposite banks of the Umia river, whose waters were used by Celts, Romans and kings like Alfonso VII.

None of these stops require booking ahead — visit them freely as the Way passes.

Getting there and back

Starting here: Pontevedra has excellent train and bus connections to Vigo, Santiago and the rest of Galicia.

Heading back from Caldas de Reis: the town has bus connections to Pontevedra and Santiago de Compostela.

Good to know before this stage

Use the flat stage to find your rhythm again

One of the gentlest stages on the Portuguese Way — a good chance to rest your feet from previous days.

Don't leave without dipping your feet in As Burgas

The thermal fountain water is free and perfect for easing the fatigue of the stage.

Have your Spiritual Variant decision ready

It splits off about 3 km out of Pontevedra — look into it beforehand if you're interested.

Watch the crossings with the N-550

The route follows it in parts, so take care on those stretches.

Don't get this stage wrong

Passing through Caldas de Reis without visiting As Burgas

One of the most unique stops on the Portuguese Way — free thermal water right in the town centre.

Not researching the Spiritual Variant if it interests you

It's a decision made just 3 km from Pontevedra — don't leave it for the last minute.

Being careless at the N-550 crossings

Even on a calm stage, some sections share the road with the main highway.

Not booking a spa in advance

The Acuña and Dávila spas are very popular — book ahead if you want to stay there.

Everything you want to know before this stage

How many kilometres from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis?
About 21.1 km according to Gronze, though some guides cite up to 22 km.
Is this a demanding stage?
No, it's one of the flattest and easiest on the whole Portuguese Way, with barely 218 m of elevation gain.
What is the Spiritual Variant?
An alternative route that splits off about 3 km out of Pontevedra toward Pontecesures, growing more popular among pilgrims.
Why is Caldas de Reis famous?
For its thermal waters, used since Celtic and Roman times, with two historic spas (Acuña and Dávila) and the As Burgas thermal fountain.
Is the As Burgas fountain free to use?
Yes, it's a public thermal water fountain, perfect for resting your feet at the end of the stage.
Where can I sleep in Caldas de Reis?
There's a public albergue run by the Xunta de Galicia, plus the historic Acuña and Dávila spas.

Things to do in Santiago de Compostela

Tour

Old town walking tour

Small-group walking tour of Santiago's old quarter with a local guide.

Book · GetYourGuideEnlace de afiliado · GetYourGuide
Tour

Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria

From €22

Guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.

Book · GetYourGuideEnlace de afiliado · GetYourGuide
Food

Queimada show and tasting

From €15

The traditional flaming Galician drink, explained and tasted in a show designed for pilgrims.

Book · GetYourGuideEnlace de afiliado · GetYourGuide
Day trip

Finisterre, Muxía and Costa da Morte

From €45

The three essential stops of the "end of the world" in a single full-day trip from Santiago.

Book · GetYourGuideEnlace de afiliado · GetYourGuide

Our top pick

Brunch · Café de especialidad · Cócteles

Bonsai Café

You've still got stages ahead, but by the time you reach Santiago you'll have earned a proper breakfast. Bonsai Café is right in the centre, with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and great cocktails to toast your arrival.

📍 Avda. Rodrigo de Padrón 2, Bajo · 15702 Santiago de Compostela
🕙 Mon–Thu 09:00–17:00 · Fri 09:00–23:30 · Sat 09:30–23:30 · Sun 09:30–21:00
📞 +34 689 89 02 49