La Mesa → Grandas de Salime
A descent to the Salime reservoir, crossing its dam, and a final climb up to the district capital.
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Short in distance, demanding in elevation
After a brief 1.5 km climb from La Mesa, the Camino begins a long descent of about 7 km from Buspol down to the Salime reservoir, on the river Navia. It is one of the most recognisable postcards of the Camino Primitivo: the trail crosses straight over the top of the dam, with views over the impounded waters.
After the crossing comes the stage's final climb, about 7 km up to Grandas de Salime, the district capital and the last Asturian town of any size before entering Galicia. The second half of the stage largely follows a lightly-trafficked paved road.
What the terrain looks like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
A short initial climb, a long descent to the Salime reservoir, crossing the dam, and a final climb up to Grandas de Salime.
Scenery
The Salime reservoir and its dam are the visual highlight of the stage.
Trail type
Dirt tracks in the first half; the second half largely follows a lightly-trafficked paved road.
Villages
Buspol before the descent to the reservoir; Grandas de Salime at the end of the stage.
Water points
Scarce services until reaching Grandas de Salime, which does have a full range of amenities.
Shade
Variable; the reservoir area offers some shade, the final stretch is more exposed.
Traffic
Light, though the second half shares its route with a paved road.
Key tip
In wet weather, the descent to the reservoir can get tricky: take extra care on the dirt stretches.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Accommodation in Grandas de Salime
Grandas de Salime has several hostel options for pilgrims. Indicative prices per night.
Albergue Porta de Grandas
Located at the entrance to the village, a very practical option to arrive without extra walking after a demanding stage.
Albergue Casa Sánchez
Another private hostel option, right in the centre of Grandas de Salime.
Refuelling on this stage
Services are scarce along the way; Grandas de Salime has the best choice at the end of the day.
Pilgrim menu
The village has bars and restaurants with menus designed for pilgrims.
Stops with history on this stage
The dam over the river Navia
The Camino crosses right over the top of the dam, one of the most iconic images of the entire Camino Primitivo.
Ethnographic Museum "Pepe el Ferreiro"
Founded in 1984, it holds nearly 2,000 ethnographic pieces in the former priest's house, one of the best rural museums in Asturias.
Collegiate Church of San Salvador
18th-century church that still preserves an exceptional Romanesque doorway.
Chao Samartín hillfort
One of the most important archaeological sites in the area, with a museum and guided visits to the fort.
If you have time and energy, the Ethnographic Museum deserves an unhurried visit: it is one of the most complete in rural Asturias.
Getting there and back
If you are starting here: connections to La Mesa are very scarce; most pilgrims simply walk in from Pola de Allande.
If you need to head back from Grandas de Salime: there is a bus connecting to Oviedo and other towns, with limited but regular frequencies.
Good to know before this stage
Enjoy the dam crossing
It is one of the most photographed stretches of the Camino Primitivo; take a moment to take in the reservoir.
Watch the trail conditions in wet weather
The descent to the reservoir runs over dirt and can get slippery on wet days.
Make the most of a short stage
At "only" 16.8 km, it is a good day to arrive relaxed in Grandas de Salime and visit the ethnographic museum.
Be careful on the road stretches
The second half shares its route with a paved road; walk on the shoulder when needed.
Don't ruin this stage
Underestimating the stage because it is short
The 16.8 km include considerable elevation change, with a long descent and no small final climb.
Walking past the Ethnographic Museum
It is one of the best rural museums in Asturias and just steps from the Camino in Grandas de Salime.
Not planning food before Grandas de Salime
Services are scarce along nearly the whole route; bring some food and water.
Rushing across the dam
It is worth stopping to enjoy the views over the reservoir before continuing on to Grandas.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres from La Mesa to Grandas de Salime?
Is this an easy stage because it is short?
What is the Salime reservoir?
What can you visit in Grandas de Salime?
Are there services along the stage?
Where can I sleep in Grandas de Salime?
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Queimada show and tasting
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Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you'll have earned a great breakfast. At Bonsai Café we're waiting for you right in the centre with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.