Pola de Allande → La Mesa
The climb to the highest point of the whole Camino Primitivo, through high-mountain scenery regarded as some of the most beautiful on the route.
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The queen stage: Puerto del Palo, the roof of the Camino Primitivo
From Pola de Allande (525 m) begins a long, steady climb, particularly demanding from La Reigada onward, with over 600 m of ascent up to Puerto del Palo (1,146-1,147 m), the highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo. It is without doubt one of the most beautiful stages on the whole route, through high Asturian mountain scenery.
Past the pass, the descent leads to Montefurado, an uninhabited slate-stone village that seems to rise straight out of the mountainside; the stretch is rocky, so extra care is needed. The Camino continues through Lago and Berducedo — where it is worth stocking up at the "El Cafetín" bar-shop — before reaching La Mesa, about 4 km further on, which has no services of its own beyond the municipal hostel.
What the terrain looks like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
A steady, demanding climb up to Puerto del Palo (1,146 m), followed by a rocky descent to Montefurado and an easier stretch to Berducedo and La Mesa.
Scenery
High Asturian mountains, considered one of the most beautiful stages on the whole Camino Primitivo.
Trail type
Mostly dirt and rocky tracks; the descent to Montefurado is rocky and requires attention.
Villages
La Reigada, Montefurado (uninhabited) and Berducedo before reaching La Mesa.
Water points
Stock up in Berducedo: La Mesa has no services of its own, only the hostel.
Shade
Scarce; most of the stage runs through open, elevated terrain.
Traffic
Very light, typical of a high-mountain stage.
Key tip
Check the weather forecast: with dense fog or snow, Puerto del Palo becomes considerably harder.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Accommodation in La Mesa
La Mesa only has the municipal hostel; it is worth booking ahead or arriving early in high season. Indicative price per night.
La Mesa Municipal Pilgrims' Hostel
The only accommodation in the village; there is no bar or shop of its own, so bring provisions from Berducedo.
Refuelling on this stage
Berducedo is the last stop with services; La Mesa has no bar or shop of its own.
El Cafetín de Berducedo
A bar-shop where it is worth buying provisions before heading on to La Mesa.
No services of its own
Hostel guests can buy food in Berducedo before the climb; there is no bar in La Mesa.
Stops with history on this stage
The highest point of the Camino Primitivo
At 1,146-1,147 m altitude, with spectacular views over the Asturian mountains on clear days.
Uninhabited slate-stone village
An abandoned village that seems to emerge straight from the mountainside, one of the most photographed spots on the route.
Last stop with services
A key provisioning point before La Mesa, with its well-known "El Cafetín" bar-shop.
Make the most of clear days: the view from Puerto del Palo is one of the best on the whole Camino Primitivo.
Getting there and back
If you are starting here: Pola de Allande has a bus connection, though with limited frequency, to Cangas del Narcea and Oviedo.
If you need to head back from La Mesa: connections are very scarce; most pilgrims simply continue the Camino to Grandas de Salime, which does have regular transport.
Good to know before this stage
Check the weather before setting off
Puerto del Palo is a high-mountain area; dense fog, strong wind or snow can make the crossing considerably harder.
Stock up in Berducedo
It is the last stop with a bar and shop; La Mesa has no services of its own beyond the hostel.
Pace yourself from La Reigada onward
The final stretch up to Puerto del Palo is the most demanding part of the climb, with over 600 m of ascent.
Take care on the descent to Montefurado
The stretch is rocky; slow down, especially if the ground is wet.
Don't ruin this stage
Setting off without checking the forecast
With poor visibility, Puerto del Palo can be hazardous; check the weather the night before.
Not stocking up in Berducedo
La Mesa has no bar or shop; arriving without food at a hostel with no services is an avoidable problem.
Rushing down through Montefurado
The rocky terrain on this stretch doesn't forgive haste; it's easy to slip or twist an ankle.
Skipping warm clothing because it is summer
At 1,146 m altitude, wind and temperature can catch you off guard even in the warmer months.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres from Pola de Allande to La Mesa?
Why is it called the queen stage of the Camino Primitivo?
Are there services in La Mesa?
Is the descent to Montefurado dangerous?
What happens if there is fog or snow at Puerto del Palo?
Where can I sleep in La Mesa?
Browse the stages
Activities and excursions in Santiago de Compostela
Old Town walking tour
A small-group walking tour of Santiago's old quarter with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
A guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, performed and explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and Costa da Morte
The three essential stops of the "end of the world" in one full day from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you'll have earned a great breakfast. At Bonsai Café we're waiting for you right in the centre with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.