Lugo → San Romao da Retorta
One of the shortest and easiest stages of the entire Camino Primitivo, a good chance to slow down after Lugo.
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A short, calm stage to recover your strength
At under 20 km, this is one of the shortest stages of the entire Camino Primitivo, with no significant elevation change. The route runs largely on paved, flat terrain, combined with some rural track stretches, so it presents no notable difficulties, even for pilgrims with reduced mobility.
Along the way you pass through Bacurín, with its Romanesque church of San Miguel next to a manor house of the same name, before reaching San Romao da Retorta, in the municipality of Guntín, where a small late-12th-century Romanesque church (with a sacristy added in the 17th century) welcomes pilgrims at the end of the stage.
What the terrain looks like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
Practically flat throughout the stage, with no significant elevation change.
Scenery
Quiet Galician countryside, with small rural parishes such as Bacurín.
Trail type
Largely paved, combined with some stretches of rural track.
Villages
Bacurín, with its Romanesque church, before reaching San Romao da Retorta.
Water points
Moderate services; the stage is short and doesn't require much stocking up.
Shade
Variable, with open stretches over farmland.
Traffic
Moderate on the paved stretches shared with local traffic.
Key tip
Make the most of this short stage to rest your legs before the longer days ahead.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Accommodation in San Romao da Retorta
San Romao da Retorta has two main hostel options for pilgrims. Indicative prices per night.
San Romao da Retorta Pilgrims' Hostel
Xunta hostel, exclusive to credentialed pilgrims, at the exit of the settlement along the Camino.
Albergue O Cándido
Private hostel opened in 2011 in a renovated old building, with its own bar-restaurant.
Refuelling on this stage
Services are moderate along the way; San Romao da Retorta offers what you need at the end of the day.
Bar-restaurant at Albergue O Cándido
Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, a practical option at the end of a short stage.
Stops with history on this stage
Romanesque church of San Miguel
Next to a manor house of the same name, one of the most charming stops on the stage.
Late-12th-century Romanesque church
A small church with a sacristy added in the 17th century, in the municipality of Guntín.
This stage has no grand monuments, but it is perfect for enjoying the quiet pace of rural Galicia.
Getting there and back
If you are starting here: Lugo has a train station and buses with very good connections.
If you need to head back from San Romao da Retorta: connections are scarce; most pilgrims simply continue the Camino towards Melide, where transport is more frequent.
Good to know before this stage
Take the chance to slow down
It is a short, undemanding stage, ideal for resting your legs after the long walk into Lugo.
Get ready to walk on pavement
A good part of the route runs along roads; well-cushioned footwear helps.
Enjoy the small Romanesque churches
Bacurín and San Romao da Retorta offer simple but genuine examples of rural Romanesque architecture.
Book ahead in high season
Accommodation options are limited; it is worth securing a spot if travelling on busy dates.
Don't ruin this stage
Rushing because it is a short stage
The pavement can be more tiring than expected; keep a comfortable pace.
Not stocking up before leaving Lugo
Services along the way are moderate; set off with what you need from the city.
Walking through Bacurín without noticing its church
It's a small Romanesque gem that goes unnoticed if you don't know it's there.
Not planning accommodation ahead
San Romao da Retorta has few beds; book ahead in high season.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres from Lugo to San Romao da Retorta?
Is this a hard stage?
What can you see along the way?
Where can I sleep in San Romao da Retorta?
Are there services during the stage?
Why is this a good stage to rest?
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Activities and excursions in Santiago de Compostela
Old Town walking tour
A small-group walking tour of Santiago's old quarter with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
A guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, performed and explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and Costa da Morte
The three essential stops of the "end of the world" in one full day from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you'll have earned a great breakfast. At Bonsai Café we're waiting for you right in the centre with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.