San Romao da Retorta → Melide
Small parishes with a strong Jacobean character before reaching Melide, where the Primitivo merges with the Camino Francés.
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The stage where the Camino Francés joins in
A stage of dirt tracks and paved stretches, with frequent but moderate elevation changes, crossing small parishes full of charm and clear Jacobean roots. There is a variant known as the "Camiño Real", slightly shorter than the official route, which rejoins the main path at the parish of Ferreira.
The stage's big moment comes in Melide: here the Camino Primitivo joins the much busier Camino Francés, making the town one of the busiest pilgrim crossroads in all of Galicia. Melide is also the undisputed capital of pulpo á feira, with renowned octopus restaurants such as Ezequiel and A Garnacha.
What the terrain looks like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
Frequent but moderate elevation changes throughout the stage, with no especially tough stretches.
Scenery
Small rural parishes with a strong Jacobean character, typical of inland Galicia.
Trail type
A mix of dirt tracks and lightly-trafficked paved stretches.
Variants
The "Camiño Real" is a slightly shorter alternative that rejoins the official route at Ferreira.
Water points
Moderate services in the parishes along the way; Melide has the best choice at the end.
Shade
Good in the Galician woodland stretches that alternate with farmland.
Traffic
Light, typical of a rural stage, though it picks up notably upon arrival in Melide.
Key tip
Get ready for the change of atmosphere in Melide: you will suddenly share the trail with many more Camino Francés pilgrims.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Accommodation in Melide
As the meeting point with the Camino Francés, Melide has a wide range of hostels. Indicative prices per night.
Melide Pilgrims' Hostel
Xunta hostel with good capacity, adapted to the high pilgrim traffic from both Caminos.
Several private hostels in the centre
Melide offers numerous private options, given its status as a meeting point of two Caminos.
Refuelling on this stage
Melide is a food destination in its own right, with pulpo á feira as the star dish.
Pulperías Ezequiel and A Garnacha
Two of the most renowned octopus restaurants on the entire Camino de Santiago, serving octopus in the traditional style on a wooden plate.
Melide's typical treats
Melindres, ricos and almendrados, plus the classic almond cake, are the perfect way to finish the meal.
Stops with history on this stage
Church of Santa María
14th-century Gothic church, notable for its tower and main altarpiece.
Meeting of the Caminos
Here the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Francés, uniting two of the most important Jacobean routes.
Jacobean parishes
Small, characterful rural settlements crossed throughout the stage.
Melide deserves a relaxed stop: it is one of the few places on the Camino Primitivo with the atmosphere of a major crossroads.
Getting there and back
If you are starting here: connections to San Romao da Retorta are very scarce; most pilgrims simply walk in from Lugo.
If you need to head back from Melide: as a meeting point with the Camino Francés, it has very good bus connections to Santiago, Lugo and other Galician towns.
Good to know before this stage
Get ready for the change of pace in Melide
After days of solitude on the Primitivo, joining the Francés brings a much livelier atmosphere and heavier pilgrim traffic.
Set aside time for octopus
Melide's octopus restaurants often have queues; arriving early helps avoid the wait.
Don't underestimate the frequent elevation changes
Although moderate, they add up over almost 28 km.
Book accommodation ahead in high season
As a meeting point, Melide can fill up quickly on busy dates.
Don't ruin this stage
Arriving in Melide without an appetite
It would be a shame not to try pulpo á feira in this dish's Galician capital.
Not looking into the Camiño Real variant
It's a slightly shorter option worth knowing about before setting off.
Being caught off guard by the change of atmosphere
It's worth knowing beforehand that in Melide the Camino gets much busier once it joins the Francés.
Skipping the Church of Santa María
A historic Gothic church that many tired pilgrims overlook on arrival.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres from San Romao da Retorta to Melide?
What happens in Melide?
What is the Camiño Real?
Where can you eat the best octopus in Melide?
What other sweets can you try in Melide?
Where can I sleep in Melide?
Browse the stages
Activities and excursions in Santiago de Compostela
Old Town walking tour
A small-group walking tour of Santiago's old quarter with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
A guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, performed and explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and Costa da Morte
The three essential stops of the "end of the world" in one full day from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you'll have earned a great breakfast. At Bonsai Café we're waiting for you right in the centre with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee, and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.